专业炒股配资网址法国时装品牌Courrèges（活希源）品牌故事

发布日期：2024-09-25 22:54 点击次数：73

品牌简介:

活希源是法国知名品牌。在世界一流名品牌当中最Sporty且富未来感的设计师即是Andre Courreges。Courreges，中文名：活希源。原名：André Courrèges，英文名：Andre Courreges，中文名也常被译做：库雷热、可瑞吉、葛茵姿。

品牌类别：男装、女装，还是手袋、饰物、鞋靴和香水

一贯使用白色及粉彩色为基本的设计创造出闪亮的跳跃感及生动的健康世界。六十年代的Courreges，已是叱咤风云的名设计师，如今的中年人正是穿着他设计的长裤、迷你裙长大的。1961年Courreges正式独立创业，经过五年奋斗，他显示出不同凡响的才能，他以独到的现代造形令六十年代的时装界和消费者们刮目相看。他推出革命性的space-age mini skirt（太空迷你裙）而名噪一时，极受当时服装界的欢迎亦革命性的推翻服装界束缚端庄的观念，少女们楚楚动人的双臂和双腿被史无前例地尽情展露，并成为一种有特色的服式永载史册。Courreges 和其他设计师最大的不同是：永远透露着青春气息！他认为「青春是脑子的思考方式，思想、心态年轻，便永远年轻」第二次世界大战时他曾是法国空军的一名机师。

一个其他民族感觉拗口的法国名字，却是人们喜爱的品牌。年轻人尤其喜欢其消闲服的设计，有款有形更有味。无论男装、女装，还是手袋、饰物、鞋靴和香水，都同商标上那两个别致的字母AC一样，给人留下深刻的印象。对中年人来说，这个名字则太熟悉了，因为六十年代的活希源 (Courreges)。这个品牌已享誉三十年。

设计师:André Courrèges

André Courrèges (French: [andʁe kuʁɛʒ]; 9 March 1923 – 7 January 2016) was a French fashion designer. He was particularly known for his streamlined 1960s designs influenced by modernism and futurism, exploiting modern technology and new fabrics. Courrèges defined the go-go boot and along with Mary Quant, is one of the designers credited with inventing the miniskirt.

安德烈·库雷热 (法语：[andʁe kuʁɛʒ]；1923 年 3 月 9 日 - 2016 年 1 月 7 日) 是一位法国时装设计师。他以 20 世纪 60 年代的流线型设计而闻名，这些设计受到现代主义和未来主义的影响，充分利用了现代技术和新面料。库雷热定义了高筒靴，与玛丽·奎恩特一起，被认为是迷你裙的发明者之一。

Courrèges was born in the city of Pau within the Bearnese region of the Pyrenees. He wanted to pursue design in art school but his father, a butler, disapproved of his passion as he wanted him to be an engineer. Courrèges attended École Nationale des Ponts-et-Chaussées (École des ponts ParisTech). During World War II, he became a pilot for the French Air Force.

库雷热出生于比利牛斯山脉贝亚恩地区的波城。他想在艺术学校学习设计，但他的父亲是一名管家，不赞成他的爱好，因为他希望他成为一名工程师。库雷热就读于国立路桥与公路学院 (École des ponts ParisTech)。二战期间，他成为法国空军的一名飞行员。

Career Early beginnings（早期）：

In 1945, at 25, after studying to be a civil engineer, Courrèges went to Paris to work at the fashion house Jeanne Lafaurie. A few months later, he went to work for Cristóbal Balenciaga. Courrèges worked for Balenciaga for 10 years mastering the cut and construction of garments.

1945 年，25 岁的 Courrèges 完成了土木工程学学业后，前往巴黎，在 Jeanne Lafaurie 时装公司工作。几个月后，他开始为 Cristóbal Balenciaga 工作。Courrèges 在 Balenciaga 工作了 10 年，精通服装的剪裁和结构。

In 1961, Courrèges launched his own fashion house. He became known for extremely simple, geometric, modern designs, including the "little white dress" and pants for women. They were often paired with low-heeled white ankle boots, a style that became known as the Courrèges boot, and evolved into the popular go-go boot. His clientele were mature and conservative woman with high disposable income. His designs style was shaped by Balenciaga with garments that were well sculpted for women.

1961 年，库雷热创立了自己的时装公司。他以极其简约、几何、现代的设计而闻名，包括女式“小白裙”和裤子。这些设计通常与低跟白色踝靴搭配，这种风格被称为库雷热靴，后来演变成流行的高跟靴。他的客户是成熟保守、可支配收入较高的女性。他的设计风格受到巴黎世家的影响，服装剪裁精良，适合女性穿着。

Controversy over who created the idea for the miniskirt revolves around Courrèges and Mary Quant. Courrèges explicitly claimed to have invented it, accusing his London rival to the claim, Quant, of merely "commercialising" it. Courrèges presented short skirts (four inches above the knee) in January 1965 for that year's Spring/Summer collection. He had presented "above-the-knee" skirts in the previous year, with his August 1964 haute couture presentation proclaimed the "best show seen so far" for that season by The New York Times. Valerie Steele has stated that Courrèges was designing short skirts as early as 1961, although she champions Quant's claim to have created the miniskirt first as being more convincingly supported by evidence. Others, such as Jess Cartner-Morley of The Guardian explicitly credit Courrèges with having invented the miniskirt. The Independent also stated that "Courreges was the inventor of the miniskirt: at least in his eyes and those of the French fashion fraternity ... The argument came down to high fashion vs street fashion and to France versus Britain – there's no conclusive evidence either way." British Vogue considered John Bates the true inventor of the miniskirt, rather than Courrèges or Quant. Alongside short skirts, Courrèges was renowned for his trouser suits, cut-out backs and midriffs, all designed for a new type of athletic, active young woman. Steele has described Courrèges's work as a "brilliant couture version of youth fashion." One of Courrèges's most distinctive looks, a knit bodystocking with a gabardine miniskirt slung around the hips, was widely copied and plagiarised, much to his chagrin, and it would be 1967 before he again held a press showing for his work.

关于谁是迷你裙的发明者，争议围绕着库雷热和玛丽·奎恩特展开。库雷热明确声称自己发明了迷你裙，并指责他的伦敦竞争对手奎恩特只是将其“商业化”。1965 年 1 月，库雷热在当年的春夏系列中展示了短裙（膝盖以上四英寸）。他在前一年展示了“膝盖以上”的裙子，1964 年 8 月的高级定制时装秀被《纽约时报》誉为该季“迄今为止最好的时装秀”。瓦莱丽·斯蒂尔表示，库雷热早在 1961 年就开始设计短裙，但她支持奎恩特声称自己首先发明了迷你裙的说法，认为证据更有说服力。其他人，如《卫报》的杰西·卡特纳-莫利，明确认为库雷热发明了迷你裙。《独立报》还称，“库雷热是迷你裙的发明者：至少在他和法国时尚界人士眼中是这样……争论的焦点在于高级时装与街头时尚，以及法国与英国——双方都没有确凿的证据。”英国版《时尚》认为约翰·贝茨才是迷你裙的真正发明者，而不是库雷热或 Quant。除了短裙，库雷热还以裤装、露背和露脐装而闻名，这些都为一种新型运动型、活跃的年轻女性设计。斯蒂尔将库雷热的作品描述为“青春时尚的精彩高级定制版”。库雷热最独特的造型之一，是一件针织连身衣，搭配一条挂在臀部的华达呢迷你裙，被广泛复制和剽窃，这让他很懊恼，直到 1967 年，他才再次举办作品的新闻发布会。

Courrèges's favoured materials included plastics such as vinyl and stretch fabrics like Lycra. While he preferred white and silver, he often used flashes of citrus colour, and the predominantly white designs in his August 1964 show were tempered with touches of his signature clear pink, a "bright stinging" green, various shades of brown from dark to pale, and poppy red.

Courrèges 偏爱的材料包括塑料（例如乙烯基）和弹力面料（例如莱卡）。虽然他偏爱白色和银色，但他经常使用闪烁的柑橘色，1964 年 8 月的展览中，以白色为主的设计中夹杂着他标志性的清澈粉红色、“明亮刺眼”的绿色、从深到浅的各种棕色色调以及罂粟红色。

In 1967 Courrèges married Coqueline Barrière, his design assistant. They had met while working together at Balenciaga, and worked together as a husband and wife team for the rest of his life.

1967 年，Courrèges 与他的设计助理 Coqueline Barrière 结婚。他们在 Balenciaga 共事时相识，之后两人以夫妻档的身份共事了一生。

In 1968 Courrèges sold a share of his company to L'Oréal in order to finance his expansion, which, by 1972, included 125 boutiques around the world. That year, Courrèges was commissioned to design staff uniforms for the Munich Olympics that year. He began offering menswear in 1973. He also developed fragrances such as Empreinte, Courrèges Homme, Eau de Courrèges, Courrèges Blue, Sweet Courrèges, and Generation Courrèges. In clothing, he remained devoted to the Space Age styles he had established during the 1960s, not changing his characteristic design features even as fashion changed during the 1970s. At the end of 1970s, Courrèges signed licensing agreements for lines of several garments, from shoes to towels.

1968 年，Courrèges 将公司的部分股份出售给欧莱雅，以资助其扩张计划。到 1972 年，Courrèges 已在全球开设了 125 家精品店。同年，Courrèges 受命为慕尼黑奥运会设计工作人员制服。1973 年，他开始提供男装。他还开发了 Empreinte、Courrèges Homme、Eau de Courrèges、Courrèges Blue、Sweet Courrèges 和 Generation Courrèges 等香水。在服装方面，他仍然坚持他在 1960 年代确立的太空时代风格，即使 1970 年代时尚发生变化，他也没有改变自己的特色设计。1970 年代末，Courrèges 签署了从鞋子到毛巾等多种服装系列的许可协议。

In early 1983, Courrèges worked with the Japanese motor company Honda to design special editions of their TACT motor scooter. By 2005, Itokin held the Japanese ready-to-wear license for the Courrèges brand, with a retail value of €50 million. By this point, Coqueline Courrèges had succeeded her husband as artistic director for the brand, Courrèges having retired in 1995 following their successful reclamation of the brand in 1994 despite several ownership changes.

1983 年初，Courrèges 与日本汽车公司本田合作，设计了 TACT 摩托车的特别版。到 2005 年，伊都锦获得了 Courrèges 品牌的日本成衣许可，零售价值为 5000 万欧元。此时，Coqueline Courrèges 已接替丈夫担任该品牌的艺术总监，Courrèges 于 1995 年退休，尽管所有权几经变更，但他们于 1994 年成功收回了该品牌。

In 1984 Courrèges designed the Peugeot "Courrèges" bicycle, a limited edition model in two colourways – pale blue, and white with pink colour pops, and with matching panniers, chain guard, handlebar grips and mudguards, with Sturmey-Archer hub gears.

1984 年，Courrèges 设计了标致“Courrèges”自行车，这是一款限量版车型，有两种颜色可供选择——淡蓝色和白色，配以粉红色调，并配有相配的马鞍袋、链条护罩、车把握把和挡泥板，以及 Sturmey-Archer 轮毂齿轮。

In 2011, André and Coqueline Courrèges sold the Courrèges brand for more than 10 million euros ($13.05 million) to two Young & Rubicam advertising executives, Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting. By 2012, total revenue for the brand was about 20 million euros.

2011 年，安德烈·库雷热和科奎琳·库雷热以 1000 多万欧元（1305 万美元）的价格将库雷热品牌出售给了两位 Young & Rubicam 广告高管雅克·邦格特和弗雷德里克·托洛廷。到 2012 年，该品牌的总收入约为 2000 万欧元。

In 2014, Groupe Artemis, the personal investment vehicle of François-Henri Pinault, purchased a minority stake in Courrège. In 2018 Groupe Artemis became the majority shareholder of the brand. Nicholas di Felice was appointed creative director in September 2020, and has been credited with revitalizing the brand and bringing it back to relevance.

2014 年，François-Henri Pinault 的个人投资公司 Groupe Artemis 收购了 Courrège 的少数股权。2018 年，Groupe Artemis 成为该品牌的大股东。Nicholas di Felice 于 2020 年 9 月被任命为创意总监，并因重振品牌并使其恢复影响力而受到赞誉。

Space design(空间设计):

Courrège's Spring 1964 collection established his impact on the fashion industry and named him the Space Age designer. The line consisted of "architecturally-sculpted, double-breasted coats with contrasting trim, well-tailored, sleeveless or short-sleeved minidresses with dropped waistlines and detailed welt seaming, and tunics worn with hipster pants". A notable look was the linear minidresses with revolutionary tailoring with cut-out panels that displayed waists, midriffs and backs. Courrège had strong beliefs within the liberation of fashion. He emphasized that "A woman's body must be hard and free, not soft and harnessed. The harness – the girdle and bra – is the chain of the slave." Which is why his cut-out panel garments were worn without bras.

同属煤炭行业，中国神华的分红历来都颇为豪气。数据显示，2019～2021年，中国神华现金分红数额占合并报表中归属于本公司股东的净利润的比率分别为57.9%、91.8%以及100.39%。

数据显示，在报告覆盖的一个月时间内（9月26日-10月25日），尽管权益市场震荡调整，但两大指数出现反弹并持续跑赢基准指数。其中，美丽中国ESG指数下跌0.24%，碳中和指数上涨0.90%。

Courrège 的 1964 年春季系列确立了他对时尚界的影响力，并被誉为太空时代设计师。该系列包括“具有建筑感的双排扣外套，配以撞色饰边；剪裁精良的无袖或短袖迷你裙，腰线低，有精细的贴边缝线；以及搭配低腰裤的束腰外衣”。其中一种引人注目的款式是采用革命性剪裁的线性迷你裙，带有露出腰部、腹部和背部的镂空面板。Courrège 坚信时尚的解放。他强调“女性的身体必须坚硬而自由，而不是柔软而束缚。束缚——腰带和胸罩——是奴隶的锁链。”这就是为什么他的镂空面板服装不带胸罩。·

Accessories were inspired by astronauts' equipment such as goggles, helmets and flat boots. White and metallic colour ways were implemented to emphasise the futuristic collection. He utilised unconventional materials such as metal, plastic and PVC which was unusual for couture ateliers. The entire collection was celebrated with British Vogue announced that 1964 was "the year of Courrèges". The New York Times described him as "the brightest blaze of the year" to emphasise the change from the little black dress to the white dress. Designers such as Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne took influences towards "future" fashion looks. With new popularity, his designs trickled down to mass production companies that created affordable designs similar to Courrèges.

配饰灵感来自宇航员的装备，如护目镜、头盔和平底靴。白色和金属色系的设计凸显了该系列的未来主义风格。他使用了金属、塑料和 PVC 等非常规材料，这对于高级定制工坊来说并不常见。整个系列都受到了英国版《Vogue》杂志的庆祝，杂志宣布 1964 年是“Courrèges 年”。《纽约时报》称他为“年度最耀眼的明星”，强调了从小黑裙到小白裙的转变。Pierre Cardin 和 Paco Rabanne 等设计师受到“未来”时尚外观的影响。随着他的设计再次受到欢迎，他的设计逐渐被批量生产公司采用，这些公司生产出的价格与 Courrèges 相似且价格实惠的设计。

Later life and death(晚年):

Courrèges suffered from Parkinson's disease for the last 30 years of his life. He died on 7 January 2016 aged 92, in Neuilly-sur-Seine outside Paris and was survived by his wife and their daughter.

库雷热在生命的最后 30 年里一直饱受帕金森病的折磨。2016 年 1 月 7 日，他在巴黎郊外的塞纳河畔讷伊去世，享年 92 岁，留下了妻子和女儿。

His death was published in notable media outlets and many designers went to celebrate his life online. President François Hollande went to Twitter to say, "A revolutionary designer, André Courrèges made his mark on haute couture using geometric shapes and new materials." Courrèges was a designer who looked to the future. He predicted the idea of healthy living and toned bodies through his book in 1982. Carla Sozzani, the owner of 10 Corso Como stated that, "It changed the concept of couture, marking the turn of fashion into a new era."

他的死讯被各大知名媒体报道专业炒股配资网址，许多设计师都在网上悼念他。法国总统弗朗索瓦·奥朗德在推特上表示：“作为一名革命性的设计师，安德烈·库雷热利用几何形状和新材料在高级时装界留下了自己的印记。”库雷热是一位着眼于未来的设计师。他在 1982 年的书中预言了健康生活和健美身材的理念。10 Corso Como 的老板卡拉·索扎尼表示：“它改变了高级时装的概念，标志着时尚进入了一个新时代。”

发布于：山东省